So, Jeff has thrown in with his recently-complete re-saw a la Roubo. Jonathan completed his a month or so prior to Jeff. Which leaves Mathew*. How’s you saw coming along, Mathew?

The aforementioned Jonathan has a blog you should check out HERE We think he should blog about his saw, which he has not. There is an update from early this year about a Moxon vice he built. I bet he’ll build another vice to hold his work when re-sawing with a saw like Roubo’s.

Though you can’t buy the saw, you can buy the hardware online.

Here’s an excerpt from an email from Jonathan dated January 9th: I want to build a Roubo style rewaw frame saw.  Go to the link below for details.  This will be a very corase saw (3 & 1/3 points per inch) sharpened rip.  This saw would be primarily used to resaw lumber, but could also be used for ripping thick stock in an upright position.  The size of the saw >36″ would preclude using it to saw horizontal stock.  If you have a band saw, you like using it and it serves all you resawing needs, this saw probably is not for you.  If you are interested in working by hand and want to resaw stock by hand,  and don’t mind putting in some time and effort and expending some calories, then this saw is for you.

Details are here:

Here is a video of one of these saws in action:

Here is a thread I started on Woodnet in my quest to build on of these bad boys:

Shannon Rodgers of the Hand School School plans to build these saws as a class project:

There is hardware available, see the link below.  Vincent is willing to do a plane jane version of the hardware for $85, or the fancy version pictured for $107.  The plane jane version will not have the scrollwork and the tension screw will be a bolt with a wingnut welded on the end.  Large eye bolts are available locally if you prefer.  I have explored local options for this hardware, including talking to a professional machinest and a home machinest and have concluded that this blacksmith made hardware set is competitively priced, and since Vincent has already made over 125 sets, he should have the bugs worked out.  The professional quoted me $200 for just a set of brackets.  The home machinist quoted me $60 for just a set of brackets. We would still need to make the rest of the hardware and get the large eye bolt.   I  plan to order from Vincent at the link below   If you want to do all the metal work yourself, the rectangular tubing is available online and it is cheap.  A metal craftsman’s time is not cheap as I’m sure we can all apreciate being wood craftsman.  There is a 4 week lead time for orders.  I want to place all orders together to save on shipping.  I’m sure Vincent will ship in flat rate boxes.

Blades will be available from Isaac Smith.  I have met Isaac a couple of times, he is an engineer and a quite accomplished saw maker.  Blades will be available in custom lengths up to 48″ in .042 1095 spring steel.  This is the standard saw plate steel that all current saw makers use.  Blades will probably be available in 2″, 3″ & 4″ widths.  It seems that the 3″ width is probably the way to go.  Read the woodnet thread.  I plan to go with a 38 or 40″ blade, as I want 36″ of teeth.  For the work I do, I rarely have a need to resaw wide stock.  I feel that 36″ of teeth should be effective at resawing up to 12″ stock, as this allows you to clear the gullets of sawdust on each full stroke.  Anything wider than 12″ will not clear the gullets, and the saw will be less effective.  I also believe that a 36″ saw will be easier to learn to use.  There will be a learning curve with this saw.  If you want to resaw really wide stock, I suggest you order a second longer blade.  Most of what I resaw is in the 4-8″ size.   Issac will punch teeth and will sharpen for an additional fee.  I have not decided if I will sharpen myself or not.  Eventually the saw will need to be resharpened, unless its a wall hanger. Sharpening at this pitch will require a 10″ regular taper saw file, and I would expect to use up at least one file maybe two per sharpening.  Sharpening/resharpening will require a light jointing of the teeth, and I see no way to evenly joint without a 3′ saw vise.  If we decide to sharpen on our own, I suggest that as a group project, we build two 18″ vises that will join together and then share the vise.  Again, I will coordinate a group order with Issac.

Blade prices and details are here.  Isaac does not expect to have blades available until late February.

Here is Isaac’s website.

*Mathew says: I give you only the answer I give to every proposed new project, “I’ll get right on it.”

Comments & Responses

6 Responses so far.

  1. Shannon says:

    I hope you will add your thoughts about the saw in use. I can honestly say that since I built one it has changed my woodworking. I am selling my bandsaw as this now outperforms it. I even built a second saw on a 36″ blade and a slightly narrower “wheel base” to use for typical drawer front veneer and such. They take some practice to get working just right and setting the teeth right is imperative but dang does it cut! I have several videos up of my saw in use on my public site and of course quite a bit behind the member wall on The Hand Tool School. Good luck and please share your thoughts about the saw in action. I would love to compare my learning curve to others who have tried the saw.

  2. Jonathan says:

    But, the important question is has Jeff resawn anything yet!!! These things are a beast and give quite a workout. Nice job Jeff, I really like the handles. Although I have been using my saw, I’m not really happy with the handles yet. I need to do some more work on it, before I blog about it.

    • Jeff Schrader says:


      I have not yet tried my saw as I am still too apprehensive about how to get this saw going. I like your suggestion of starting a kerf cut with a regular rip saw and then switching over to the beast. The other thing I am trying to figure out is how to hold the wood in my vise. I suspect that I won’t be bold enough to try my saw until we get together and put them to the test at a club meeting or weekend workshop session.

      • Jonathan says:

        Getting a nice straight, plumb kerf is the secret to keeping the saw on track. There is no steering the beast. I have been starting the kerf with a large tenon saw. As for a vise, you will need one with serious holding power on a heavy bench.

  3. Tony says:

    Perhaps the club needs to build a dozen or so stout workbenches to put these saws through their paces. Perhaps the bench build and saw trials could be fueled by stout. Pipeline Stout: Fuel for your next Alaskan adventure.

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